Minisweater

Minisweater

(a.k.a. Boobholder)

 

Stefanie Japel 2004

For non-commerical use only

 

Skill Level:

Intermediate.

 

Materials:

About 400 yards worsted weight or slightly heavier yarn.

US 9 (5.5 mm) 24 inch (60 cm) circular needle.

 

For border:

Finer gauge yarn and appropriate needles.

 

Gauge of body:

13 sts/21 rows  in 10 cm

 

Gauge of border:

7 sts is about 4 cm.

 

Instructions:

Notes:

*This pattern is worked keeping the first five stitches of each side in garter stitch.

*Increases are made by picking up and knitting one stitch from the row below.

 

All sizes:

Cast on 50 stitches.

 

Work 8 rows garter stitch and divide as follows:

 

Row 1: Knit 9, place marker, knit 8 place marker, knit 16 place marker, knit 8 place marker, knit 9.

 

Row 2 and all even rows: knit 5 purl to last 5 stitches, knit 5

 

Row 3 and all odd rows:  knit, increasing one stitch before and after each marker.

 

Repeat rows 2 and 3 6 times (you now have 13 total rows.)

Row 14, purl

 

Row 15, work increase row as normal, but increase five stitches evenly over both sleeve sections. 

 

Row 16: k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.

 

Row 17:  work increase row as normal, working sleeve sections as k3 m1, k3 m1, etc. over both sleeves.

 

Row 18:  k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.

 

Row 19:  repeat last increase row.

 

Row 20:  k5, purl to last 5 sts, k5.

 

Row 21:  resume normal raglan increases.

 

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of  17 increase rows (34 rows total.)

 

Separate sleeves from body.

 

Place all body stitches on one piece of scrap yarn, and each sleeve on its own piece of scrap yarn.  Try on your sweater.  If the sleeve stitches meet at the underarm, it fits and you’re ready to move on.  If it seems too small, do a few more increase rounds.  Too big, take a few rows out.

 

Body:

Place all body stitches back onto the knitting needle and work as follows, remembering to keep the first and last five stitches of each row in garter stitch.

 

Increase on each end of every purl row like this:

 

K5, m1, purl to last 5 stitches, m1 k5.

 

I worked 21 rounds in this manner, but you may need to work more, depending on your own body shape. 

 

For the busty gals This is a link to additional instructions. Click here if you need them. If not, proceed as follows:

 

Garter stitch for three rows.

Next row (buttonhole row):  Keeping in garter stitch, work 3 stitches, yo, work 2 together.

Garter stitch for three more rows and cast off loosely.

 

Sleeves (work the same):

Worked flat and seamed together:

Work in stockinette for 7 rows.

Rounds 8 and 10 (RS):  k3 k2tog to end.

Round 9 and all odd rounds (WS): purl

Round 12:  k5, k2 tog to end.

Garter stitch for 5 rounds, cast off loosely.

 

Border:

With contrasting finer gauge yarn and smaller needles, pick up two stitches for each cast off stitch, trying to make sure you have a multiple of 7 stitches.  Work three rounds in seed stitch.  To make each point (working in seed stitch):

 

Row 1: work 7 stitches, turn.

Row 2: work 2 tog, work 3, work 2 tog, turn.

Row 3: work 5 stitches, turn.

Row 4: work work 2 tog, work 1, work 2 tog, turn.

Row 5: work 3 stitches, turn.

Row 6: work 3 tog.

Row 7: k1, cut yarn, pull tail through last stitch.

 

Re-attach yarn and make the next point as above, and continue to end of border.

 

Finishing:

Attach button, weave in ends.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last updated August 14, 2004

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